131

Gnyuki Torimaru

(1937- )

Princess Diana pleated Fortuny-style formal dress. 1986.

Pen and ink, pencil, and colored pencil on paper.
Signed and dated in lower right. Inscribed by Yuki, "H.R.H. [Her Royal Highness] The Princess of Wales" in upper right. Includes a photograph of the princess wearing the dress.

Production:
Fashion design for dress worn by Princess Diana to a banquet with Emperor Hirohito of Japan during her trip to attend his enthronement.
16 1/2 x 12 in. (41.9 x 30.5 cm.), Frame: 21 3/4 x 16 1/4 in. (55.2 x 41.3 cm.)

  • Provenance:
    Private collection, New York.

    Other notes:
    Fashion diplomacy is a favored tradition among members of the royal family, with clothing often chosen to pay tribute to the culture, colors, or designers of the countries they visit. Throughout the 1980s, Princess Diana mastered this practice, incorporating local references into her wardrobe, including this royal-blue gown created by the Japanese designer Yuki Torimaru. The dress was made for Diana's 1986 visit to Japan during celebrations surrounding the enthronement of Emperor Hirohito. At the time, Yuki was widely respected in Japan but remained relatively unknown abroad. Diana wore the gown to a state banquet hosted by the Emperor, one of the most prominent events of the tour. The appearance drew international attention and significantly elevated Yuki's reputation outside Japan.

    The gown itself reflects the influence of Art Deco designers, Mariano Fortuny and Erté, described in a Christie's catalogue as "A Long, Pleated Fortuny-Style Formal Dinner Dress in Royal Blue by Yuki." It features finely pleated fabric whose "uncrushable" quality made it especially practical for travel.

    The original gown was later sold at auction for $25,300 to James Kojima on behalf of his cousin Akihito Kojima, principal of Mejiro Fashion & Art College. A copy of the design is now preserved in the collection of the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, which holds an important archive of Yuki's work.

    References:
    https://marilynsroyalblog.blogspot.com/2020/05/whatever-happened-to-princess-dianas_13.html
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